Cairo -- First Impressions

I exited the plane around 8pm and headed to a new experience -- I had yet to see signs in Arabic.  I made my way to passport control and stood before the 53 year old mustached customs agent.  He shook his head behind the bulletproof glass enclosure in which he sat, and after reviewing my passport, he said, "Marc, do you have your VISA?"  I told him that I didn't (d'oh -- where was I supposed to get it??).  He pointed to another counter and told me to go get it and return to his line.

I paid my $15 USD and made my way back to his line.  He allowed me to step in front of everyone else, and with a grin, he said, "Thank you, Marc," stamped my passport and wished me a good trip. 

I start with this story because this typifies the people I encountered in Egypt.  Everyone I came across was ridiculously friendly.  I mean, it was to the point, that it was almost creepy.  I kept thinking that the people were trying to butter me up in order to swindle me (how I despise that I think that way now -- thanks, Bangkok ;p).

My "taxi" -- a van with curtains drawn in the backseat -- sped through Cairo towards Giza.  I've never been to the Middle East (I know, I know, Egypt is technically not the Middle East), but it was definitely surreal being an American and seeing images that looked exactly like Iran, Iraq, or Afghanistan. 

First off, the traffic was a disaster -- this was far worse than Bangkok or even Saigon.  There were lanes on the highways, but most lane marker were faded and not maintained -- for good reason.  No one used them.  Essentially, if there was space on a road, each vehicle went for it.  In fact, it didn't even matter if you were going the same direction as the cars!  It was completely insane!  Horns blared and the driver flashed his lights constantly.  Making thins worse, we flew along at about 65mph, and then would have to slam on the brakes because a camel would be galloping along on the freakin' highway!!  Driving here definitely wasn't for the meek. 

We exited the major highway and drove down side streets which exposed me to more camels, horse drawn "carriages" (these were really just flat pieces of wood on wheels with 2-4 passengers being pulled by a horse), and donkeys.

I did fear for my life at one point.  Once we exited the main highway, the streets were filled with people.  The driver had been pointing out landmarks (there are some really cool mosques), so I pulled back the van's curtains.  Well, we stopped at one point with 200-300 people in the middle of the street.  All of them peered in the van, and it sent chills down my spine as I realized that I was the only cracker in the area, and I had no idea where I was or what this group was doing.  The people clamored to see inside the van.  The van nudged through the crowd, and within 3 minutes, we were on our way again.  Weird...

We made it to Giza and the driver casually said -- "There Spinx," and, well, yes -- there it was (along with the main pyramids), on the other side of a fence.  Crazy!

We drove another 200 yards or so and pulled up to the apartment.  By this point, we were in the middle of a really crappy neighborhood.  The streets had quit being paved miles back, and random dogs, cats, camels, horses, goats, chickens, etc. lined the streets.  There were absolutely no tourists anywhere, and no touristy restaurants -- we definitely ain't in Kansas anymore. 

I grabbed my backpack and was greeted by a really friendly Egyptian who escorted me to the apartment.  He opened the steel entry door, I walked inside, and met this...

Yep -- that's a crazy Rottweiler behind a cage.  It kept moving and barking, so I couldn't get a decent pic, but I think this pic is awesome anyway (especially the eyes).

I was led upstairs, and was immediately impressed with the place.  I was staying in a large, probably 1,500 sq. ft. or so, two bedroom apartment. 

It was around 11pm, I was exhausted from not sleeping the night before and decided to pass out.